Croatia: The Best Place You've Never Been
“Why Croatia?” they asked. These are my American friends; their idea of a European vacation is a tour of Italy or Greece. I said, “Been there, done that, but you can take me back to Split.” Halfway between Athens and Venice, in what used to be Yugoslavia, is the historic port city of Split, destination central in the strip of paradise known as the Dalmatian coast. Now independent Croatia, this coastline offers access to over 1,000 islands in the Adriatic sea and is home to some the most hospitable natives you will ever meet.
Although overland routes exist, with a very serviceable highway linking all the best Croatian coastal towns and cities, a strong sea-faring tradition invites a more leisurely and picturesque mode of travel: by water. Fly directly into the port cities of Split or Dubrovnik from European hubs like London, Amsterdam, or Rome, or depart from the Italian ports of Ancona, Pescara, or Bari by way of overnight ferry service, and you will see why so many—the Greeks, the Romans, the Venetians, the Austrians, and Napoleon, among others—have coveted this rugged coast and her islands.
Smart modern explorers use sailboats, including the native wooden gulets, motor yachts, or ferries to visit the Croatia’s beautiful and historic ports and fortified island towns. While lingering in clean plazas and squares bordered by ancient churches, small boutiques, and modern cafes, visitors can sip well-crafted Croatian wines and sample Dalmatian specialties like air-cured ham, Pag Island cheese, and grilled fish.
Croats will tout the many virtues of their favorite places and there is plenty of opportunity to go off the beaten track, so it seems unfair to highlight only a few destinations here. However, if you are only spending a week or less in Croatia you would do well to consider these Dalmatian gems:
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik’s medieval walled city has survived all manner of disasters throughout the ages, including Serb bombardment in 1991 and a recent wildfire that came within a mile of the city. However, it remains beautifully preserved and visitors gladly line up the steep stone steps to walk the mile and a half of ramparts that circle the old town. Be sure to keep the camera handy to capture awesome views of orange tiled roofs, church spires, rocky shorelines, and the sheltered little harbor below. Within the walls are monasteries and cathedrals and, compared to Venice and Athens, surprising few tourists considering the old town has been designated as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.
Dubrovnik is also famous for classical and modern music and theater. The day we visited, they were setting up bleachers in a lovely stone courtyard in the fort for one of the many music, dance, and theater events that are scheduled during the six week Summer Festival.
Korcula
The island of Korcula (pronounced Kor-choo-luh) is a three-hour ferry ride northwest of Dubrovnik, or a two-hour catamaran ferry ride from Split. Halfway between Venice and Corfu by water, the old fortified town of Korcula juts out into the sea, defended by towers, and dominated by the spire of St. Marks Cathedral. Oak, olive, and fruit trees provide shade and provisions for the many Konobas, which are outdoor cafes and restaurants offering tempting Italian and Dalmatian fare for the hungry traveler. Stay overnight at the four-star Marko Polo Hotel (Marco Polo wrote his travel journal while he was a prisoner of war in Korcula) or stay in one of the many cute little apartments available for rent.
Hvar
The approach to Hvar by water is stunning. Layers of terraced homes surround the old town, which features an expansive marble-tiled Pjaca (square) dominated by St. Stephen’s cathedral. A walk up the cool forested path to Spanjolac Fort rewards you with vistas of the glittering emerald waters and neighboring islands. The easier coastal Stara Obala (Old Quay) path leads to the laid back Bubba Gumps beach bar or to more upscale beach clubs and hotels. Treat yourself to a sunset drink on the terrace bar at the ultra modern Riva Hotel, or save your kuna for a late night drink at the trendy Carpe Diem bar, located on the New Quay promenade directly across from where the three hour ferry from Split to Hvar-City unloads its happy passengers.
Trogir
Although the ancient Greeks were the first to build a town here, most of Trogir’s existing city center dates back to the Middle Ages. In the first century AD, Trogir was a strategic port in the Roman province of Dalmatia and some of the Roman construction survives. However the most notable architectural influences are Venetian, including the fortresses of St. Marc and Kamerlengo (now an open-air theater). Italian influences can also be seen on the menus at top restaurants and cafés like The End, Fontana, and the St. Dominic Pizzeria. Beyond the stone gates and gastronomic sanctuaries, pebble and sand beaches draw both tourists and natives, who find shade under the pines when they are not swimming in the warm, clear waters. Almost every coastal market in Croatia sells water shoes designed to protect your tender tootsies from rocky bottoms and the porcupine-like spines of the occasional sea urchin.
Split
The Roman Emperor Diocletian’s palace is the best reason to visit the old town of Split, but it’s not the only one. Spend an hour exploring this palace, which sprawls through the heart of the old town, take some shots of the Perystile (palace court), make your way to the beautifully engineered Roman horse stables (which now shelter arts and crafts vendors and other temporary exhibits), and then consider a visit to the Maritime Museum and the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments. Spend your evening like the locals: take a stroll down the impressive promenade and ogle the mega-yachts. By the time you lick the last of your gelato, you will begin to understand why the Croatian coast is becoming the yachtsman’s destination of choice. St. Tropez, watch your back.
Facts
Captital: Zagreb.
Population: Five million.
Currency: Croatian Kuna. However, Euros are accepted in many shops and restaurants.
Language: Croatian, though English-speaking and multi-lingual restaurant menus, servers, and shopkeepers are commonly found in the tourist areas.
Visas: Citizens of many countries with personal or diplomatic passports do not require a visa to travel to Croatia for stays of less than 90 days. However, you should have proof of a return ticket. To find out whether or not you need a visa, check here.
Sailing and Charter Boat Companies
Sailing Holidays from their base in Kremik (near Split). Full cruise packages including air from Europe with crewed sailboats on hosted flotillas, or bareboat and skippered sailing yacht charters.
The Moorings from their base in Dubrovnik. Bareboat and skippered sailing yachts.
The Moorings from their base in Kremik (near Split). Bareboat sailing charters only.
Sunsail from bases in Dubrovnik and Kremik (near Split). Bareboat, skippered charters, flotilla, and share a sailing yacht.
Croatia Yachting from their base in Split. Bareboat and skippered motor yachts, sailboats, and traditional gulets.
Gulet Croatia from their bases in Split and Dubrovnik. Skippered and crewed Gulets (traditional wooden wide-beamed motor-sailers). Air and hotel packages available.
Rental Accomodations on the Dalmatian Coast
Copyright . Published 1 September 2007 in The Zone.
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