An American Spirit: Bourbon
Kentucky is famous in many ways, from being the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln to being the home of the Kentucky Derby and its signature drink, the mint julep. It is also home to the liquor that goes into said julep: bourbon.
Home-grown spirits like bourbon and Tennessee whiskey are popular not only with Americans, but in many countries around the world. Japan, Australia, and Western Europe are some of the major importers of bourbon, and markets are expanding all the time. In 1987, the total amount of bourbon exported from the entire United States was 3.6 million gallons. Twenty years later, in 2007, the Wild Turkey distillery alone exported approximately 2.3 million gallons.
Kentucky is home to eight distilleries, including Jim Beam, Woodford Reserve, Heaven Hill, and Maker’s Mark, though bourbon is manufactured in many states. Many people believe a product must be made in Kentucky to be called bourbon, but this is untrue. However, the product must be made from a mash composed of at least 51% corn (most distilleries use closer to 75%), and be aged at least two years (most are actually aged four) in new, charred oak barrels.
If you make a trip to Kentucky, be sure to sample a variety of the local product to get an appreciation for this American original. One place to do this is at the Old Talbott Tavern in Bardstown, Kentucky, the town that bills itself as “The Bourbon Capital of the World.” Their drink menu includes a bourbon sampler. For $25, you get five shots of bourbon and a shot glass of your own to keep. Considering that some of the bourbons on the list regularly sell for $6 or $8 a shot, getting five for $25 is a very good deal.
Our party chose three expensive bourbons and two less expensive bourbons for our sampler, so we could compare bourbons of different ages. The basic factor in cost for any distilled and aged liquor is that, the longer it’s aged, the less of it there is due to evaporation. The difference between the amount of liquid put into the barrel vs. the amount that comes out years later is referred to as “the angel’s share.” By the time something has aged 18 years, the angels have had time to consume a fair portion of it, so you can expect to put out a chunk of change for your serving of the remainder.
Since the bourbon is around 80 proof, our party did not feel shy about sharing each shot so that we could compare and discuss what we liked vs. what we didn’t like. We all agreed that the Four Roses 4-year bourbon was fairly tasteless, colorless, and watery compared to the others — not surprising since it had not aged as long. The Elijah Craig 18-year was enjoyed by everyone at the table, as was the Henry McKenna 10-year.
Bourbons that have aged for only four years are more appropriate to be used in mixed drinks than shots, since they are less expensive and not as strong. Bourbons aged ten to eighteen years should really be enjoyed alone. But to truly appreciate them, the trick is to add a few (and only a few) drops of water. This brings out more of the caramel taste of the liquor and also eliminates the finish, (the burn of the liquor sliding down one’s throat). Such bourbons are referred to as “sipping bourbons.”
Though our distillery tour guide warned us never to drink a sipping bourbon while eating a meal — he claimed it would “ruin” the taste of the food — our party had no problem appreciating our dinner after working through our bourbon samples.
Whether you wish to mix your bourbon into a cocktail or sip it over dinner, you can find a bourbon to fit your intent and your price range. Enjoy!
The Classic Mint Julep:
Put crushed ice and one teaspoon of superfine sugar in the bottom of a mint julep cup. (To get “superfine sugar,” grind regular sugar in a food processor for about 30 seconds.) Fill the rest of the glass with ice, and add 3 oz of the bourbon of your choice. Garnish with a sprig of mint.
If you’d like more mint in your drink, muddle the mint leaves at the bottom of the glass with the sugar and crushed ice, then add the rest of the ice and the bourbon.
Copyright Martha Kneib. Published 1 October 2009 in The Zone.
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